City Guide: Madrid


 

By day, Madrid is sophisticated, steeped in history and culture. However by night, a dramatic change occurs, with the city letting her hair down and becoming a whirlwind of tapas bar-hopping, accompanied by the beat of fast-paced, dramatic flamenco dancing. Located in the center of the country, Spain’s capital has something for everyone, from exciting bullfights to elegant architecture, sleepy siesta times to a frenzied nightlife that lasts into the wee hours of the morning. After Franco’s death and the end of his totalitarian regime, Madrid celebrated with non-stop all-night parties, giving birth to an era known as la Movida. Today, Madrid has lost none of that energy, which continues to attract visitors from all corners of the globe.
 

When to Go
 

Summers in Madrid are hot, with temperatures topping 30C (86F), and sometimes even touching 40C (104F). Winters are moderate, with daytime temperatures at around 10C (50F), although the mercury can drop below 0C at night. As such, the best time to visit this majestic city is during the moderate Spring and Autumn months, although keep your fingers crossed for dry weather. If you’re visiting in the scorching summer months, be prepared for the city to shut down for the daily afternoon siestas.
 

How to Get There
 

Fly into Madrid’s airport, the Aeropuerto Internacional de Barajas (MAD), then take the metro to the city. Alternatively, the Airport Bus (#200) also makes frequent trips to the city center.


 

If you’re taking the train, you will arrive at either Atocha or Chamartín stations. From the latter, take a 45 minute ride on Bus #5 to Puerta del Sol. Alternatively, you can catch a red Cercanías train from the Atocha Renfe stop, which services both main train stations.


 

Madrid has an extensive public transportation network. However, once in the city, it’s best to stay above ground and enjoy the sights. Take the Metro only for longer trips or between your first and last destinations of the day.


 

Things to See
 

Take a walking tour to familiarize yourself with the city. Although the city may seem to sprawl, you would be surprised how walkable it is. The Madrid Tourist Office, located in Plaza Mayor, provides excellent tours in both English and Spanish. The one and a half hour tour is free with a Madrid card and will give you a background of the city’s history and an idea of where the main sights are located.


 

After your whirlwind tour, settle down and take a more leisurely stroll through the many attractions the city has to offer, starting with Plaza Mayor itself. Designed by architect Juan de Herrera, the plaza was built for King Felipe III more than 400 years ago. As Madrid’s main square, Plaza Mayor was once used for public executions during the Spanish inquisition. However, nowadays, the plaza’s large, open verandas and elegant arcades are mostly home to flamenco dancers and overpriced street-side cafés.


 

Next, head to the nearby Catedral de San Isidro, also known as La Colegiata as it was originally part of a Jesuit college. Built in 1622, this twin-towered, Jesuit Baroque-style cathedral is dedicated to Isidro, patron saint of Madrid as well as crops and farmers, and is also his final resting place.


While you’re in the area, visit the Plaza de la Villa, the heart of Old Madrid. The horseshoe-shaped door on C. Codo, is a good example of the Gothic-mudéjar style, while the stone and brick buildings with wrought iron balconies date back to the 15th century. Across the plaza, you will find the 17th century Ayuntamiento, originally home to the mayor and the city jail.


 

To escape the heat of the summer sun, head into the museums of Madrid. Start with the Museu del Prado, located in the Plaza Cánovas del Castillo. Commissioned in 1785, the museum arguably contains the finest Spanish art collection in the world. For €6, you’ll be able to spend an afternoon in the company of Spanish greats like Goya and Velázquez, as well as other European masters like Botticelli, Caravaggio, and Rembrandt. Alternatively, entrance is free from 6-8 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday and 5-8 p.m. on Sundays. Either way, be sure to see Velázquez’s famous Las Meninas and don’t miss Goya’s Pinturas Negras (Black Painting).


 

If you prefer twentieth century art, head to the Queen Sofia’s Art Centre (Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía) at the Plaza Santa Isabel. The collection boasts pieces by such Spanish greats as Picasso and Dali. Don’t miss the highlight of the collection, Picasso’s Guernica. The museum is closed on Tuesdays.


 

If you still haven’t had your fill of great works of art, explore the Museo Thyseen-Bornemisza, located on the corner of Paseo del Prado and C. Manuel González. The museum contains the largest private collection in the world, including more pieces by Picasso, and Dali on the ground floor. Closed on Mondays, the museum is open from 10 a.m. until 7 p.m. Tuesdays to Sundays.


 

If you’re in need of a little action after the museums, catch a bullfight at the Plaza de Ventas on C. Alcalá. The Fiestas de San Isidro holds daily bullfights or corrida in May and June. Seat prices vary depending on the shade available, with the cheapest starting at €2, and the choicest at €115. Whatever the price you’re willing to pay, bring a cushion to protect your bum from the hard concrete seats. Don’t worry if you’re not visiting in early summer as bullfights are held every Sunday from March to October and you might even catch the occasional off-season fight.


 

Madrid’s Palacio Real, or Royal Palace, located in Western Central Madrid, is also well-worth a visit. Don’t expect to find King Juan Carlos in residence as he prefers to stay at the smaller Palacio de la Zarzuela, just outside Madrid. However, this means that the palace is open every day, with a ticket and a tour costing €10. The tour will take you through 50 rooms, including the Salon de Trono, where you will get to witness the magnificent thrones, complete with golden lions at their feet. Also, don’t miss the exquisite Chinese Room, and the Royal Armory, complete with several impressive sets of knights’ armor.


 

For a bit of fun in the sun, visit the Parque del Buen Retiro, which literally translates to the “Nice Retreat Park.” Once a hunting ground, King Felipe IV converted it into a public park where Madrileños go to sunbathe, play some soccer, or have their palm read. At 300 acres, the park is one of the largest in Madrid, and contains a lake where you can hire rowboats at €4.40 for 45 minutes. If rowing is too strenuous, take a leisurely stroll around the lake and enjoy the various street buskers.


 

For Real Madrid fans, the Santiago Bernabéu stadium is a must-see. For €15, you will get to ogle the trophy room, walk around the pitch and pretend you’re warming up with Ronaldo, and even visit the players’ dressing room. However, try not to go during match days as some areas won’t be open to the public.


 

If you’re in Madrid over the weekend, don’t miss El Rastro. This Sunday flea market stretches from La Latina at Pl. Cascorro to the bottom of C. Ribera de Cortidores. The market contains all sorts of knick-knacks, and unexpected finds like animal hides. If you’re an animal lover, avoid that section and head towards the sound of the pet birds instead. Remember to bargain, keeping in mind that the starting price can probably be discounted by up to 50%. As with most crowded places, El Rastro is a magnet for pickpockets, so be aware of your surroundings and take the appropriate precautions.


 

Places to Eat
 

No holiday is complete without sampling the local fare. As in the rest of Spain, tapas, or appetizer-portioned snacks, is a must-try. Most tapas bars, also known as tascas or tabernas, cater to the lunch crowd from noon to 4 p.m., then take a little break until opening for the dinner patrons from eight till late. For the best tapas bars, visit Plaza Mayor or Plaza Santa Ana. Top recommendations include Casa Alberto on Calle de las Huertas, which, at more than 180 years old, is one of Madrid’s oldest bars. If you’re looking for some relaxing down time after long days on the road, head to Café-Bottilería Manuela on Calle de San Vicente Ferrer. There, you and your friends will be able to relax over drinks, board games from the top of the piano, and of course, tapas.


 

Tapas are eaten instead of meals. However, you may feel like the bite-sized morsels just don’t cut it and you need some real food. If you’re on a budget, you’re in luck as cheap but good food isn’t hard to find. Most restaurants will have daily set menus for about €10, which gets you a drink, and a three course meal. If you’re looking for something a little more fancy, try the paella at Arrocería Gala on C. de Moratín or the Mediterranean-style food at Sula on C. de Jorge Juan. If you’re vegetarian, not to worry, as El Estragón Vegetariano is so delicious even die-hard carnivores would go meat-free for a day.